Assamese jewellery has always been an integral part of its rich heritage and a symbol of exceptional craftsmanship. The majority of the traditional jewelry made in Assam is handmade by talented artisans. On April 2nd, Assamese jewellery (Axomiya gohona) has been awarded the prestigious Geographical Indication (GI) tag. ”Another milestone of prosperity for Assam Congratulations to every artisan who kept this legacy alive,” The chief minister of Assam stated.

There hasn’t been a lot of improvement in the patterns of these finely created items since Assamese ladies have worn them from the beginning of the Ahom Dynasty. They have everlasting appeal and are classic.

Assamese jewellery pieces have detailed elements of the designs that include flora, fauna, and traditional musical instruments like the drum, pepa, and dhol. The majority of the styles are nature-inspired, with animal and bird patterns prevalent. Each piece of Assamese jewellery is given a name that both identifies and explains the form and ornamental work that has been done on it.

There are numerous designs that are unique to this state. Most of the jewellery pieces are crafted in gold, silver, and kesa xun (raw gold). Some are made of wood and nowadays with clay.

1. Jonbiri

Image by: powalmoni_

It is a crescent moon-shaped piece. As "joon" in Assamese means "moon," and "biri" is the design surrounding it. It is a beautiful and attractive piece, which is very popular and can be seen mostly in earrings and long chains.

It has gold and rubies in the front and an enamel coating behind. Jonbiri is found in different sizes, ranging from dainty pendants to statement pieces. They come in various colors, with red, green, and gold being the most common.

2. Gal Pata

Image by: assamessetradition

It is a type of choker necklace traditionally worn by the Assamese women, most commonly during weddings and the Bihu dance. Gal means neck, and pata is the flat chain holding it together.

It is embellished with intricate floral designs and sometimes with designs of traditional Japi. A beautiful piece of Gal Pata worn with a traditional mekhela chador gives an elegant look.

3. Thuriya

Image by: rangdhali_collections

An age-old design that remains evergreen in Assamese tradition. The traditional Thuriya is an earring that has a highly unique design. It is composed of a broader bottom half, a thin middle portion, and a front side that resembles a flower.

The design helps in the earrings’ ability to stay in the ears intact. These customary Assamese earrings are worn by elderly women from Assam, as they hold the earlobe perfectly without causing any pain.

It is a valuable piece of Assamese jewelry that is handed down to the successive generations by the lady of the house.

4. Gamkharu

Image by: sonaru_ornaments

It is a statement bangle made of gold or silver. One of the most popular pieces of Assamese jewellery. Several designers have been inspired by its unique look and tried to incorporate it into other designs of handcuffs or bracelets.

Traditionally, gamkharu is worn as a pair, one in each hand, and saved for special occasions. One of the interesting features of this bangle is that it can be opened with a knot attached to it, and therefore, it can fit anyone. In earlier days, men used to wear silver gamkharu.

5. Dugdugi

Image by: powalmoni_

Just as adorable as its name, it is a beautiful heart-shaped piece of Assamese jewelry made of gold and stones. Mostly found on pendants and earrings, some rings are also crafted with this design.

The common colors are green, red, black, and blue. It's perfect to pair up with any colorful mekhela chador to elevate its beauty.

6. Dhol Biri

Image by: powalmoni_

Just as the name suggests, this piece of Assamese jewelry has the shape of a dhol and an intricate design crafted on it. The dhol biri pendant looks like a solid cylindrical mass representing the dhol, and beautiful designs are crafted on it with different colored enamels.

The earrings come in different shapes, from danglers to statement studs. It is very popular among Assamese women.

7. Kerumoni

Crafted in a round shape, Kerumuni has a hollow pendant called “Keru,” which means small. The strands of this necklace consist of pearls or moti, known as moni in Assamese. It has a close resemblance to Dhol Biri, but the complete set of earrings and neckpiece makes it appear different.

My personal favorite is the dangler earrings with chains and a keru design on the bottom that looks perfect on anybody.

Endnotes

The exquisite and culturally rich designs seen in Assamese jewellery are profoundly rooted in both tradition and contemporary aesthetics. These pieces, which range from the delicate pepa to the intricate Japi, are gems of Assamese art history and reflect a story of craftsmanship and heritage.